Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Tips.
- Why does my DSLR.Bot App not trigger the camera’s functions?
- Is the Infrared Transmitter plugged into the headphone jack?
An DSLR.Bot Infrared Transmitter can purchased from this website, or you may build your own transmitter by following some simple DIY instructions found at the Instructables website.
- Is the camera set to receive infrared signals?
Most Canon cameras need to be set to receive infrared signals to be triggered via remote. On Canon EOS cameras press the <AF.Drive> button, then look at the LCD panel and turn the dial to either “10-sec self-timer” or “2-sec self-timer”. - Is the volume settings in your iPhone set to maximum?
You can set the volume to maximum by pressing the top volume button found at the left side of the iPhone. – Is the infrared transmitter pointed directly at the camera’s infrared receiver?
Infrared signals can only work with a direct line of sight. Some camera lenses may obstruct the infrared signal to the camera. Please be sure to test the application with the transmitter pointed directly at the cameras receiver at a distance of 2 cm. Lighting conditions may vary the performance of the transmitted signal. - Check within your iPhone settings that “Sound Check”, “EQ”, and “Volume Limit” is turned off.
i) These settings can be located in your iPhone Settings / iPod / Sound Check.
ii) After these settings have been change, Open the DSLR.Bot App and then press the volume buttons to maximum.
iii) Switch the app to “Time Lapse” then select the “Rapid Fire” function, then press “Start”.
iv) Plug in headphones into the headphones socket. (This is to test if the signal is coming through, there should be a buzz sound coming from the headphones).
v) Replace the headphones with the infrared transmitter.
vi) Make sure the camera is set to receive the infrared signals and the transmitter is facing the infrared sensor on the camera.
vii) The camera should be triggering at this point.
viii) Should the camera still not trigger please contact firstname.lastname@example.org for further technical support.- There have been cases where the iPhone is not delivering audio to the earpiece and the cause of such problem is the iPhone sometimes doesn’t recognise if headphones are plugged in or forgets what mode to be in.
To solve this unplug then re-plug headphones or any other compatible device into the iPhone’s audio jack several times. Repeating this simple routine has solved the problem for several iPhone users.- Additional settings to check incase IOS device isn’t triggering the camera.
Go to iPhone Settings / General / Accessibility ..
Mono Audio, make sure this is set to ‘Off’. - Some users have reported difficulty triggering camera under fluorescent light.
Try under different lighting conditions, possibly a dimly lit room under tungsten light.
- Why does my camera not trigger for Sony, Pentax and Nikon cameras?
- Check you iPhone settings / DSLR.Bot, change the Camera IR Signal to the appropriate camera selection.
You must close DSLR.Bot application fully and restart it with the remote button plugged in.
- Sony Cameras
- Drop the volume 2 bars down from maximum for optimal signal quality.
- Why does my remote button not trigger the camera?
- The iPhone may not detect the remote button plugged in and will default to playing the audio from your iPod playlist.
To fix this you have to close DSLR.Bot completely and restart the application with the remote button plugged in.
- Why does my Time Lapse/Long Exposure/Movie Mode sessions get interrupted while using after 1 minute or longer?
- Does the Camera go to sleep while using the application?
You must set the camera’s automatic sleep setting to “never” in order prevent it from turning of during a photo session.
Please review your camera’s manual for instructions to change this setting.
- Why isn’t Long Exposure mode working?
- Is the camera set to “BULB” mode?
The camera needs to be set to “BULB” mode for the application to trigger Long Exposures. Please refer to your camera’s manual for instructions on setting your camera to “BULB” mode. On Canon 5D Mark II, the “BULB” mode can be found at the top left hand dial.
- Why does the camera miss fire or drop frames when doing a timelapse/repeat long exposure/ repeat hdr bracketing?
- Each camera has their own processing speed in which they handle saving images after the shot is taken. You need to adjust the interval/delay between shoots to compensate for your camera so that it can take the next shot without interruption.
The longer the delay the better as it will give time for camera to save the image and then take its next shot.
- Why ins’t Movie Mode working?
- Is the camera set to “Live View” mode?
The camera needs to be in “Live View” mode for application to trigger the recording. Please read through your camera’s manual for instructions on setting your camera to “Live View” mode.
- Why ins’t Shoot mode logging GPS coordinates when I press “shoot” or “2 seconds delay”?
- Is the “On/Off ” toggle in the Shoot mode set to “On”?
The application will on start logging GPS data once this option is set to “On”. - Is there a blue tracking marker visible in the GPS Log?
There are several external variables that may contribute a lack of GPS reception. Shooting under cover may provide interference for the GPS to give accurate readings.
- Why ins’t my GPX log file synchronising with my photos?
- Is the time on the camera set to the exact same time on the clock provided in Shoot mode?
The time for both the camera and the iPhone must be in-sync for geocoding programs to correctly match the GPS coordinates to the correct photo.
- Why aren’t all my Pins displayed from previous photo sessions?
- There is a maximum of 30 pins loaded at start-up to prevent the system from pausing for an excessive period of time. All previous locations are still recorded within the iPhone database and can be exported at anytime.